Should I do this?

November 12, 2011

SHOULD I DO THIS?

People are always asking inspectors if they should “do this or do that” and of course we always have an opinion!

This month I’m going to address some of these concerns.

These opinions are MINE and I’m sure some will disagree but after building and inspecting houses for 29 years I have a pretty good feel for what works and what doesn’t…

“Should I install gutters?”: A lot of folks from “up North” can’t believe houses down here don’t have gutters. The reason is we don’t have basements! I don’t believe in gutters because they’re expensive and just something else to maintain and clean out. The only exceptions are if you have erosion problems or pooling water around your foundation or have a pier and beam foundation. If you do install them and have trees around your house, be sure to have screens installed on top to keep out the leaves, unless you ENJOY getting on a ladder a couple times a year to clean them out…

Should I get a tankless water heater?: No. They DO save on gas but the payback period is WAY out there. You’ll never recoup the cost unless you stay in your home a LOT longer than the average person. They are very expensive to buy and install AND they need maintenance because they are very complex. If you want to save money in Texas, spend it on your a.c. The typical water heater in most homes lasts 15 years and gets NO maintenance (yes, you‘re SUPPOSED to drain them occasionally but no one does). We often see them 20-25 years old and most likely they’ve never been touched since the day they were installed ! Another little known issue with tankless units is that there is a short delay before you GET hot water because it takes awhile for them to sense the “need” and then actually start making it! 99.9% of the homes we inspect don’t have one. They are “green” and DO give you unlimited hot water (and don‘t take up much space), which is nice especially if you have a large “garden” tub which a std. water heater will NOT fill.

Should I clean my ducts?: NO, unless you have round metal ducts which very few people have. Cleaning older ducts can actually damage them and you’ll never get all the crud out of them. If you’re not real good about keeping your filter clean, what’s the point? Also, you must clean your COIL too (attached to your furnace), not just the ducts. AND, you need to have the duct system sealed properly or the problem will recur
Check out this great article before you do anything: http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html

OPEN LETTER TO BUILDERS II

April 12, 2011

I usually get a couple comments back each month on my newsletter, but last month, whew boy, I got a BUNCH. Most basically said “right on Bob, give those builders Hell!”.
Well, I certainly didn’t mean to stir up a hornet’s nest but my letter definitely got some folks riled up…
It’s been a month since that letter and I thought of EVEN MORE things a builder could do to improve his homes for VERY little additional money, if any.
1. put an exhaust vent in ALL baths. If a bath has an openable window or a/c vent, an exhaust is not required, but it sure is needed !
2. use vinyl frame windows, not aluminum. This metal is a GREAT source of heat transfer which means YOUR heat is transferring OUTSIDE or vice versa. There is supposed to be a “thermal break” between the window panes but it’s not always there. It’s no surprise alum. windows have been losing market share since the early ‘90s and now less than 15% of windows sold have alum. frames.
3. STOP using St. Augustine sod ! Please ! Yup, it’s cheap but it’s also disease prone and LOVES water. I like Bermuda though it has its own problems but it does use less H2O. Consider more ground cover type plants, rocks, Xeriscape and plant beds.
4. Most builders put ONE, count ‘em, ONE 60w light bulb in the garage. Folks, that is NOT enough light for a 400sf room! A 2-bulb fluorescent fixture costs $20 and puts out gobs more light
5. While we’re talking about the garage, how about a workbench? I bet the framer wouldn’t charge more than $50 extra to build one of those while he has all those 2X4s out and laying around. The extra material cost would be ZERO. Ever seen how much wood is thrown away on a typical jobsite?
6. Put the main water shutoff in the GARAGE, not by the water meter. 90% of all the shutoffs we see end up getting BURIED within about 6 months. And the ones that aren’t buried are impossible to turn on and off because the plumber puts them 12” in the ground surrounded by a 6” pipe! And if you CAN turn it off, half the time the handles break off because they’re so thin!
7. Consider using vinyl or fiberglass bathtubs, not steel. Steel rusts and chips over time and is basically a huge heat sink which sucks a LOT of “hot” out of the hot water
8. Why aren’t builders installing master bath doors these days? And if they are, it’s 2 little mini [hollow] French doors which don’t seal out any noise or have a lock. Soooo, if your spouse gets up and takes a shower at 0600hrs., YOU’RE going to be getting up too !
9. give your buyers a choice between blown OR spray foam insulation. Show them a study illustrating the huge reduction in their elec. bill and they’ll pay the difference, trust me…
10. Tell your plumber to use “freeze proof” faucets on the outside (the faucet valve is INSIDE the home, on the HEATED side of the wall). You’ll eliminate the most common cause of frozen pipes and flooding AND your buyer won’t have to install those silly insulating covers on the outside ever again !

OPEN LETTER TO BUILDERS

March 19, 2011

OPEN LETTER TO BUILDERS
Inspectors see some mighty strange things in NEW homes and we wonder what possessed the builder to do what he did !
May I humbly offer some advice?
-put the gfi outlet in the MASTER bath instead of the halfbath or hall [kid’s] bath. That way if it trips, you’ll know it right away. We NEVER see this! And, don’t put them outside, they only last about 2 years there.
-run the a/c emergency drainline out the FRONT of the house. Builders did this in the 1970s and early 80s but not now. They put it over a SIDE window typically outside the kid’s bath or the kid’s bedroom ! If you’re like a lot of people and don’t mow your own grass, YOU will never see it dripping either. You want to know right away when it starts dripping because when it STOPS dripping, your ceiling is coming down ! Even better, don’t even USE a drainline, use a float switch which will turn the a/c OFF when there’s water in the drainpan. That forces the homeowner to do something about it immed. , which they should
-put the laundry room adjacent to the area where the dirty clothes are generated, the BEDROOMS. How many times do we see it between the kitchen and garage OR on an entirely different floor ? It’s that way because most architects are MEN and we know THEY don’t wash the clothes! Why should the woman have to trek to the opposite end of the house to to the wash?
-run an a/c duct to all walk-in closets. Let’s face it, clothes that have been worn and shoes stink and if you leave your closet door closed AND it’s not air conditioned, everything in there takes on a really funky odor…
-please, please, please put an attic pulldown door in ALL your houses so the attic can be used for storage or the a/c man can easily get to the equipment up there. I’m begging you. I can’t tell you how many million dollar homes we see with just a small hatch in the ceiling, it’s pitiful, really.
-I don’t know who invented the ductless, recirculating venthood but it is completely worthless. PLEASE do NOT put them in a kitchen. I will send Vinnie after you…
-If you have an upstairs laundry room, please use a METAL drainpan under the washer. 100% of the plastic drainpans more than one year old are cracked, yes, 100%…
-Why do you put water heaters in the attic? It’s REALLY hard to get it up there to begin with and it’s doubly hard to get it out + when it leaks it causes BIG problems, even with a drainpan under it. Put it in the garage where it
belongs and if it’s far from the baths, use a circulating pump. With a timer, they use very little power….
-tell your painter to caulk those little round chrome “escutcheons” (under all the sinks) to the back of the cabinet or wall. You’d be amazed how much attic air enters the home around those little guys.
-if you build a 2 story with only 1 a/c, please put the thermostat upstairs so in the middle of the night if I’m hot, I don’t have to walk down to my LR to make it cooler.
-tell your plumber that a 40 gal. water heater will NOT fill a large garden tub with hot water. For an extra $15, he can put in a 50 gal. tank which WILL fill that tub.

 

-if you build stucco houses, use a COMMERCIAL stucco contractor. NONE of the residential guys know how to do it right, believe me. Result? Lots of water inside the wall within 5 years, guaranteed. Don’t believe it? Go to
http://www.smithinspect.com/stucco.htm and see for yourself.

 

Tip of the month: Have a spa tub? After your bath and before you drain the tub, put some bleach in the water and turn the pump on. This prevents algae from growing inside the water lines and spewing out onto YOU next time you use the tub !!

SORRY, we dont’ check that…

February 10, 2011

SORRY, WE DON’T CHECK THAT

Licensed inspectors in general are pretty good at checking most things in the  typical home. They may not know exactly what the problem is or how to fix it, they do know there is a problem.

What items do inspectors not check and what type of disclaimers do they utilize?   More than most people realize!

Most significantly, the sales person should know that just because something is in the house the inspector is not necessarily looking at it!   Burglar alarms, septics, wells, solar systems, sewer lines, roof mounted photocells, water softeners,  utility lines and meters (including gas!), electric air filters & self clean ovens come to mind. Some inspectors won’t even inspect hot tubs, pool, or sprinklers !

In addition the inspector most likely is not inspecting all the features of some items.   For instance the dishwasher is only checked in the “normal wash” mode, the intercom is only checked in the “radio” mode and the sprinkler is only checked in the “manual” mode.   Occasionally they work in these modes, but not in others (usually prompting a call to us after closing)!

We also don’t check for any environmental hazards such as radon, lead, asbestos or mold, though we can refer you to people who can. A wise inspector also doesn’t inspect for “code” compliance since a home just a few years old won’t adhere to current stds. A lot of them do EVEN THOUGH THEY’RE NOT CODE CERTIFIED !

Time constraints and the desire for liability reduction are the motivating factors behind these self imposed limitations.

Additionally, most inspectors add disclaimers to their reports to limit the buyer’s  recourse should a problem come up after closing (typically this involves an item which was not as represented).   Common wording here would say that the inspection is “limited”, “visual only”, “subjective” or “does not constitute a warranty”.   Let’s face it, an inspector is supposed to find everything wrong with the property in the course of a 2-3 hr. inspection.   In reality this is not possible though the parties  to the contract assume that it is!   We all know what ASSUME means!

Inspectors like the standards of practice which TREC has formulated as they formally set the boundaries of what is and isn’t required for us to look at. I highly recommend agents get a copy of these stds., I think you’ll find them very interesting…  Previously there were far too many gray areas.   Some inspectors looked at some items that others didn’t and vice versa.   That served only to confuse all parties to the real estate transaction.   The more “black and white” instead of “gray”, the better!  As of Sept. 2007 all inspectors must carry E & O insurance (the ONLY profession in the state req’d to do so!). A home warranty can also mitigate some but not all the risk…

SAFETY IN THE HOME

January 11, 2011

SAFETY IN THE HOME

 

This month we’ll discuss conditions in and around the home which can cause harm to you and your family.

 

First, let’s talk about the obvious-smoke detectors. I can’t tell you how many homes we go in where this item is missing, disconnected or inoperative. A fireman friend recently told me that in 15 of the last 18 fatal fires in Austin, the smoke detectors weren’t working. It reminded me of the newspaper articles I see regarding car wrecks, where in the last sentence it says: “driver and occupants were not wearing seatbelts”.  Kind of makes you wonder. No one ever thinks it’ll happen to them, but it happens somewhere every day…

 

Carbon monoxide is a silent killer and snuffs out over 500 people a year in the US. Gas furnaces, water heaters, dryers, ovens and fireplaces (gas AND wood) are the main culprits. If you have an older furnace, consider replacing it. At the very least, get a PLUG IN carbon monoxide detector. If you have gas logs in your fireplace, be sure there is a clamp on the damper which prevents it from fully closing. (keeps someone from lighting it with the damper closed and allowing all the CO to enter the living space…).

If you feel bad during the heating season only (flue like symptoms) and the MD “can’t find anything wrong”, CO could be the problem…

 

Electricity can be dangerous. The easiest way to protect yourself is to have GFI outlets by all sinks, in the garage, kitchen and outside. They are only $12 and easily installed, no changes to the wiring are needed. They SHOULD be tested occasionally though by pushing on the “test” button as they fail internally over time.  If the “reset” button doesn’t pop out, the unit is defective and needs replacing.

 

Pools: about four THOUSAND people die annually in the US from drowning. Many more have non-fatal drowning injuries which result in brain damage. Almost EVERY pool we inspect has problems related to safety which are easily remedied. Fence gates which lead into the backyard should be self-closing and latching to keep uninvited children out of the backyard. The door on the back of the home leading to the pool area should have an alarm or chime of some sort to notify the adults that the door has been opened. The underwater pool light should be on a WORKING gfi outlet and the pumps and equipment should be in an enclosed area, grounded AND bonded. Lastly, the drain grate at the bottom of the pool or spa should be a modern anti-suction type.

 

Clogged dryer vents cause a lot of fires every year, if yours is drying slower and slower, it’s probably NOT the appliance but a clogged dryer vent, often on the roof or in the attic !  Also, only use METAL dryer duct, the vinyl type will overheat and catch fire…

 

The only other obvious safety problem we see, especially in 2 story homes built before 1996, are guardrails which have spacing wider than 4”. Some infants younger than 2 years old can get thru this size opening, believe it or not, and fall down onto the first floor (or the ground if it’s a balcony).

What happens when we miss something?

December 12, 2010

WHAT’S AN INSPECTOR TO DO?

What happens when an inspector misses something during an inspection?

Many parties to the real estate transaction think that inspectors, like many other professionals, carry some sort of insurance for any oversights made in the course of their work. This was not the case until 2007 !  Now, when we renew our license, we must prove we have this coverage.

 

In the usual “complaint” scenario, the buyer asks the inspector to “make good” and if he doesn’t the buyer usually files a lawsuit. Rarely do buyers file a complaint with TREC though this is by far cheapest, fastest, and most effective way to get a licensee to act!  Of course, the lawyers involved don’t go out of their way to tell the buyer this (or may not know themselves!).

If the inspector is smart, he will “settle up” with the buyer pronto as once things get beyond this stage the costs logarithmically multiply. Prior to us having to carry E&O insurance, if he doesn’t have the money and missed a cracked slab or other major item, the buyer’s only alternative is to sue the inspector, win, then direct the court to have TREC pay the judgment out of the inspector’s recovery fund. (Maximum for any one transaction is $12,500 including all attorney’s fees, interest, and cost of court). The inspector’s license can be suspended till the fund is repaid (kind of like debtor’s prison isn’t it?). If the defect costs more than $12,500 to fix (which a foundation easily could), the buyer is simply out of luck.

A rarer occurrence, but one which most inspectors are also unprepared to pay for, is damage to a house during the inspection. Probably the two most common are flooding (whoops, forgot that upstairs tub was on) and fire (“I knew I shouldn’t have lit that 40 year old furnace”).  Only general liability would protect the buyer here.  If an inspector also has a pest control license he must carry business liability insurance, a min. of $300,000. Of course even this wouldn’t cover the cost of rebuilding a larger home if it burned. I doubt if the majority of home inspectors carry this type of coverage though.

A more interesting aspect of this topic is the following: The inspector is called upon to make good on an item which he didn’t inspect (or whose condition wasn’t discernible during the inspection) or for a verbal statement made during the inspection.  Examples of the former are termite activity and septic systems (most home inspectors inspect neither). An example of the latter: “you have 30 year roof on your house” (when, in fact it is a 20 year roof). This poses a much more difficult situation for the licensee as he is forced to retain a lawyer to prove his case (Unless  the buyer can be persuaded to accept binding dispute settlement somewhere).

 

I have been in this situation once and found it cheaper to pay for the alleged transgression than retain counsel. If the inspector doesn’t make good (whether he is culpable or not) he is guaranteed never to hear from either agent (or any agents in their respective offices). Most inspectors now have arbitration clauses in their inspection reports which obligate the buyer to bypass a lawyer and go directly to binding dispute settlement however these are routinely ignored by lawyers.

Best advice for the inspector is:  Carry lots of insurance and be very, very careful.

arc fault breakers and water heater expansion tanks

November 17, 2010

New Home Inspection Requirements

If you think you’ve seen some pretty odd write-ups lately from inspectors, you’re not imagining things, it’s true!

Starting this past Spring, TREC has req’d inspectors to write up additional items. Some were being written up anyway, except for two: expansion tanks at water heaters and arc fault breakers in living areas.

What ARE these anyway???

Expansion tanks are small 2 gallon air tanks attached to the top of a water heater to allow for thermal expansion of the water in the tank which can harm the plumbing system incl. the water heater itself. Excess pressure will bleed off into the expansion tank instead of into the plumbing system.

As you know, the water heater has a pressure and temp. relief valve but it doesn’t open until the water is at 210 degrees or 150 psi !  Damage can occur long before that threshold is reached!

TREC only makes us write-up this item as a deficiency if it’s missing AND there is a pressure reducing valve at the water meter (because this valve acts as a “check” valve and won’t allow excess pressure in a home’s plumbing system to bleed back into the City water main.)

Arc Fault breakers will trip off if they sense an arc or “short” in and extension cord or the wiring leading to an outlet or switch. Obviously, an arc can cause a fire so that’s why these breakers are now commonly installed in new construction. If the home was built in 2009, they are installed in living areas and if the home was built since about 2003, they will be found in the bedrooms as well. Normal breakers can be replaced with these specialty items BUT some brands they are bigger than the standard type breakers so you’ll need more room in the panel (or a NEW panel).

Courtesy of Precision Inspection   282-0455    since 1983     license #105

Copy and use as you wish.          Member ABoR and Austin Apt. Assoc.
Check out this cool website: bookofodds.com

Quote of the month: Don’t aim for success if you want it, just do what you love and believe in and it will come naturally.    David Frost

buying rental property (long but WORTH IT!)

October 11, 2010

Buying investment real estate
This is for anyone wishing to purchase investment real estate, all of whom I hope end up
with at least one or two pieces of rental property…It’s a relatively EZ way to build
wealth and make extra income.
Why you should invest:
-it’s the ONLY investment someone else buys for you
(the renter pays it off, not you)
-you can get it with very little down payment (0-25%)
(try buying stocks or bonds for that)
-it’s leveraged ($1 spent can equal several $ of profit)
-it has favorable tax consequences
(if you know what you’re doing, you’ll NEVER pay taxes when you sell)
-it appreciates (if you buy at the right time)
-profits go up every year (rent increases over time but the payment stays the same)
-everything related to it is tax deductible
(Uncle Sam helps you pay the expenses)
-it throws off income you can’t outlive (if you buy right and manage it right)
-it’s like having your own small business but the “employees” pay YOU, never call in
sick and require virtually no supervision
Before you start:
Read the books “Becoming your own banker: the Infinite Banking Concept” by
R N Nash or “Bank on Yourself” by Pam Yellen OR go to Findoutmorenow.com and
follow the instructions. If you do what they tell you, you will retire very comfortably
and never pay a dime in interest to anyone.
Go to the library and check out some books on the topic of real estate or go on the
internet and read some articles or blogs on this subject. You’ll learn a lot. Most big cities
have a “tenant’s council” website which is VERY informative. Read it ! Check out any
“real estate investor” clubs in your town.
Foreword:
Owning rental property is not for everyone. It “sounds” good but the reality can be
quite different. The majority of investors LOSE money in real estate primarily because
they have someone else manage it, they pay others for repairs (or pay too much), they
pay too much to begin with or they keep buying and selling. You must be good with
people. If you’re easily frustrated, impatient or get ticked off with people this is NOT
for you, go do something else. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
If you can handle some hassles from time to time and don’t mind getting your hands
dirty, this MAY be for you. Start off slowly and see what you think.
This advice is what I think, get other opinions. YOU may decide something else is
better for YOU…
General Advice:
Get an experienced realtor who has worked with a lot of investors help you buy your 1st
property. Never buy in a “hot” market (where prices are rising quickly and there are lots
of buyers looking at few properties). Bide your time and save your money, the prices
WILL come down. A “bad” market is the time to buy, when there’s lots of doom and
gloom going around and everyone is talking down about realty. Baron de Rothchild said
“buy when there’s blood in the streets” and he was right ! Always ask the seller to pay
your closing costs AND make some repairs.
After you’ve been thru one transaction, you’ll see how EZ it is. Most people should
stick with single family homes (sfd, single family detached) because FAMILIES tend to
rent them and they tend to stay awhile. Tenant turnover is what kills your bottom line.
The longer a tenant stays, the better off you are. Don’t rent to unmarried people or
“room mates”, it’s inherently an unstable situation (if one of them moves out, the
other one usually can‘t pay the rent by themselves), you want LONG term tenants.
Married people tend to be more stable. Multifamily properties attract younger people
and those “on the move”, not good. MF may throw off more cash than sfd but involves a
lot more hassle & expense due to tenant turnover. MF structures are always in poorer
condition that sfd (probably because the vast majority are not owner occupied) and get
more abuse when they’re occupied.
Screen them using National Tenant Network, www.mysmartmove.com or someone like
them. I screen most everyone unless I just have a good “feeling” about them. This
comes with time and maturity and is a learned skill. Don’t do that right away.
Get as much deposit as the market will bear and the 1st month’s rent via a money order
or cash, never a check. After they move in, I will accept checks until one comes back
“nsf“, after that it’s MO’s only.
I like 4 bdrm homes in nice neighborhoods as they don’t cost much more than 3 bdrm
homes (if at all) but rent a lot faster and for more (appreciate faster too than property in
a less desirable area). 1200-1800 square feet is plenty big enough. Larger homes cost
more to carpet and paint and the tenant population is smaller. Most rent houses are 3
BR so if you have a 4 BR, you’re “one up” on the competition. Also, when you buy
houses and not multifamily, your property is surrounded by sfd which means a BETTER
neighborhood. Multifamily structures are surrounded by other MF buildings and the
neighborhood often looks bad (litter, tall grass, broken down vehicles, trash cans left
out etc.) Also, when you sell, only another investor will buy a multifamily structure
whereas an investor OR a homeowner will buy your HOME.
Some people say “if the HOUSE is vacant, I’m getting NO rent but if one side of my
DUPLEX is vacant, at least I’m getting SOME rent”. This is true and is the ONLY
benefit of MF as far as I’m concerned. My response is: “If you do what I tell you to do
in this article, your home won’t be vacant very long!”
Never buy a 4-plex unless it’s in a good area or it’s the only one on the street. The
worst tenants migrate to these properties for various reasons I won’t get into here. Lots
of 4plexes on a street means GHETTO, avoid them like the plague no matter how cheap
they are. They typically have high turnover and are often owned by out of town
investors who could care less about them. SFD in good areas appreciates faster than MF
in marginal areas and appreciation is ONE THIRD to HALF your net return over
time, besides monthly cash flow. Be wary of foreclosures. They may or may not be a
good deal but EVERY agent I know says it’s a MAJOR pain dealing with banks. If often
takes MONTHS to get an answer back on your offer, yes months! There is usually lots
of non-foreclosures in your price range so I say, “why deal with a bank?”.
I recommend against having a partner in your venture. If you own something yourself,
YOU make all the decisions. Some partnerships work out, but a LOT don’t. It can create
a lot of hard feelings and lost friendships. Once you’re in one, you’re in one, it’s too
late… If you must have a partner, think twice (or maybe three times !). Don’t use a
friend or family member, you’ll regret it, trust me. Your partner is just that, a business
associate, not your “buddy”.
Loan:
I recommend getting a fixed rate 30 yr. loan because this maximizes cash flow (profit
after all expenses) which is the holy grail of investing. A 15yr. note does pay off the
house faster but the payment is fixed AT A HIGH LEVEL. With a 30 year note the
payment is lower and YOU have the option of making extra payments if you want to (to
reduce the note balance).
Paying off a house is nice but shouldn’t be your goal. MAXIMIZING CASHFLOW IS
YOUR GOAL. REPEAT: MAXIMIZING CASHFLOW IS YOUR GOAL. Never
forget that. Ever… (when a bank looks at you they don’t care how much you’re worth
or how much equity is in your properties, they want to know WHAT YOUR MONTHLY
CASHFLOW IS because that‘s how they know they‘ll get paid back !). Notice I didn’t
say “monthly revenue”, I said CASHFLOW, which is your NET after all expenses.
Making extra payments may pay off the loan sooner but that money is now locked away
inside the property as illiquid “equity”. It may make you feel good but it won’t help you
in any way and its rate of return is ZERO. You can’t use it (unless you refinance, which
is expensive). If you want to make extra note payments, make them into a safe liquid
investment instead (CDs, cash value life insurance or bonds) and then DON’T TOUCH
IT.
Once you have some equity, I do recommend taking out a heloc (home equity line of
credit). That way, you can get at the equity quickly if you need it. Don’t EVER use
equity to fund your “consumption” desires (e.g. a vacation), only use it to buy
something which will generate income. FYI, Wells Fargo & Compass bank will give
you a heloc on investment property, most lenders won’t.
The more money you put “down“, the lower your payment will be (and the higher your
cash flow) but the less your leverage is. I used to put down 5-10% but I’ve put down
20% at times to avoid PMI (private mortgage insurance) which increases your payment.
For instance, the PMI on a $100k loan could easily be $75 per month ! Many lenders
now want 25% down for rental property !
If you can get the owner to finance the deal, good, (there are no bank fees, which are
high and you can usually put less down) BUT the interest rate is usually higher than
from a bank or mortgage company AND the loan is usually a short term one. You want
permanent financing. Also, I always have the bank “escrow” for taxes and insurance
which means that each payment includes a charge for those expenses so YOU DON’T
HAVE TO COME UP WITH IT AT THE END OF THE YEAR, AND IT’S A LOT
especially here in Texas !
Everything with real estate is negotiable, don’t forget that, EVER.
If you don’t ask for something, you won’t get it. ASK for it ! (if
you don’t ask, the answer is already “NO” !). If the seller tells you
upfront they won’t do this or that, ignore it… (this isn’t true in a
“hot” market but YOU don’t buy then)
Renting the house:
Your property must outshine all your competition ! Families typically go out on a
Saturday and preview houses they want to rent. They’ll check out 3 or 4 in their price
range and will rent the nicest one. Yours must “smoke” the others, hands down. Put
NICE ceiling fans in all the BR’s and LR, house must be spotlessly clean, replace any
worn floor coverings (use carpet ONLY in the BR‘s, if at all), have any worn
countertops recoated, yard must be mowed and edged.
Replace any cheap or worn lights and plumbing fixtures with NICE ones (larger cities
have places where you can buy used and new building materials for cheap, Habitat for
Humanity for instance). Replace badly worn or outdated appliances and make sure they
are all the same color. I never buy new but get 1-3 yr. old ones out of Craigslist or the
newspaper. I replace venthoods with over-the-range microwaves which I pick up all the
time for $25-75 (make sure you get ALL the installation parts including the wall mount
bracket and top mounting bolts !).
I ask potential renters if they need a washer/dryer and I’ll gladly supply them for an
extra $25 per month (you can get nice used ones for $100 each so after 8 months,
they’re paid for) ! BTW, anything you buy for the property is tax deductible so in
reality it costs even less than what you’re paying for it ! How awesome is that !?
Paint the house inside and out if it needs it. Get rid of any bad smells. “Stage” the house
with little doodads inside (like towels on the towel bars, soap dispenser by the sink,
flowers, etc.) Use non-electric deoderizers to give the place a good smell. Don’t scrimp
on upkeep, remember you must SMOKE the competition and there’s LOTS of it! The
better your place looks, the better tenant you will attract. Low quality tenants will make
your life a living HELL, trust me.
Put a for rent sign in the yard and one on the nearest busy street corner. Check the
newspaper to see what homes in your area are renting for. Place ads in as many venues
as you can afford. I have good luck with the newspaper. I also use Rent.com
Do NOT show the house until it is 100% ready, otherwise you’re wasting your time
(people are turned off by houses that need work). I leave my places unlocked and when
people call I tell them to “go check it out”. I leave applications inside and tell them to
take one, fill it out and fax it to me if they’re interested. If they leave and forget to pick
one up, I’ll email one to them. I’ve never had a problem doing it this way. If the home
is in a “bad” part of town (which you shouldn’t be buying in anyway), then put a combo
lock on the front door with the key inside. If a realtor sends me a qualified tenant, I have
no problem paying them a commission (usually 75-100% of the 1st month’s rent). I
rarely do this though as I can usually rent them quickly myself.
I personally don’t mind people with bad credit or a long ago criminal background if they
have a good rental and employment history. I generally don’t rent to people with an
eviction on their record unless it was a long time ago. I also rent to “Section 8” [welfare]
tenants a lot. I’ve had pretty good experience with those programs, and they tend to be
very stable renters AND THE CHECK FROM UNCLE SAM NEVER BOUNCES.
Never rent a property without getting a deposit in cash (never a check) and never allow
them to pay the deposit over time, get it upfront or you’ll never get it! A property is not
“rented” until you have a deposit and a signed lease i.e. keep advertising it no matter
what the people tell you (“I‘ll come by tomorrow with the deposit I promise“). They
don’t move in till you have the 1st month’s rent, in cash, never.
When a house is for rent I usually have the utilities turned OFF after I’ve done the
repairs to save on expenses UNLESS there are dark rooms that people can’t see without
the elec. turned on (usually baths). Sometimes though I’ll just leave a flashlight in there
for them to shine into the bathrooms (“watch your pennies and the dollars will take care
of themselves”). I go by the property every few days to make sure everything looks
good (1 roach or pill bug on the foyer floor WILL scare off some people!)
Selling the property:
In a word, don’t ! Rental properly is a LONG TERM investment. Just because you
have lots of equity in the house, don’t be tempted to sell or refi UNLESS you’re
stepping up to more or bigger properties using a 1031 exchange (selling is where you
incur the most expenses AND taxes.) There’s nothing wrong with staying with sfd
though, nothing at all. They require very little of your time once the tenant is in and
that’s a big point to remember. Multifamily may throw off more cashflow but it takes
more of your time too… Don’t forget that.
When you do sell, consider selling to the tenant using a lease purchase arrangement or
with you “carrying” the note. YOU get the same cash flow as before but without the
maintenance and management headaches…
Managing the house:
There’s not much to managing sfd so do it yourself ! Most property managers don’t do
much and they certainly won’t keep as good an eye on YOUR investment as you will.
Never let the tenants pay late (after the 3rd) & always insist on them paying late charges
if they do pay late. Never become their friend or buddy. This is a BUSINESS
arrangement.
Never let them put their problems onto you (“I can’t pay because my mom’s sick, I lost
my job, I broke my leg“, etc.). That is THEIR problem and THEY have to deal with it.
If rent is not paid by the 10th, you must post an eviction notice on their door, NO
exceptions. File the eviction 2 days later. They’ll get the message loud and clear.
They’ll either pay or move out. Do not listen to their promises to pay; MONEY talks,
BS walks. Do not accept partial payment, it affects your legal rights. They’re just
stalling for time and stringing you along. DO everything reasonable to get them to stay
since tenant turnover is what kills your bottom line but they must pay. I rarely have to
actually file an eviction (very EZ, done at the local small claims court, forms are
online), the people usually pay or move, but you must keep up the pressure on them !
You can always make exceptions for good tenants who are having a temporary tough
time, use your judgment. The bad ones will always lay a guilt trip on you, don’t fall for
it. Tell them you have a mortgage to pay and that you are not a charitable organization
but a for-profit BUSINESS.
Keep the rents at market rates so keep abreast of what the market is doing. I raise rents
approximately every 18 months. The tenants never complain because they KNOW what
other houses nearby are renting for, trust me! If you keep the place fixed up, they’ll
stick around because they’ve all had crummy landlords who fixed nothing and STILL
charged them market rents !
I rarely return the deposit because most of the time they break the lease or leave the
house dirty. If they leave it clean though, return the deposit. That’s the right thing to do.
I always take pictures of a dirty house in case they try and come back to me for the
deposit.
Repairs:
Tell the tenants to call you right away when something needs repair and then fix it right
away. Try and do it yourself, most items really aren’t that hard. If you can’t, call a
professional but not just anyone.
ONLY use people you have gotten a referral on and then establish a longterm
relationship with them and pay them promptly. They’ll take care of you in a pinch that
way. (It’s Saturday and I just got off the phone with my a/c man who is in VT on
vacation. He told me he’d take care of the problem and he DID, he called a friend of his
to service my tenant’s a/c within TWO hours!). You want plumbers, handymen and
electricians like this too. Get referrals from friends, Angieslist.com or property
managers (they REALLY know who’s good and inexpensive)
When a property goes vacant, fix ALL the problems inside, repeat: ALL the problems.
This makes it easier to rent and reduces calls from tenants once they’re in the unit.
When I DO go by a house for repairs after it‘s rented, I always check the a/c filter, the
smoke detector and the gfi outlet in the bathroom or garage (to make sure it still trips off
when tested). If the filter is dirty, I tell the tenant it’s really increasing their electric bill
and if the unit stops cooling due to a clogged filter, the repair bill is THEIRS (says so in
the lease). I really “lay into them” if the smoke detector is disconnected, especially if
they have children!
The downside:
There are lots of stories out there regarding “bad” tenants who destroy your property
and cause a lot of problems. They are few and far between. Most people are decent and
just want a place to live their lives normally. The secret to avoiding them is to SCREEN
everyone carefully. Call their boss, call their landlord, listen to them and look at them
(avoid people who are evasive, vague or give incomplete answers). Make sure their
“boss” or “landlord” isn’t really one of their friends. Insist on a completely filled out
application. It’s better to have a vacant unit than to have a bum tenant. If you catch them
in a lie, don’t rent to them.
People who are “in a hurry” to rent or who have to “move in this weekend” are probably
being evicted or otherwise in a bind of their own making and are a risk. Do check out
their stories though and exceptions can always be made. If you don’t have a good “feel”
for people, have someone else meet them and talk to them and see what they think.
Having rentals does involve a lot of bookkeeping especially right before April 15th. You
must keep ALL receipts for all of your expenditures so you can document everything if
you’re audited. This business is for ORGANIZED people. If you’re not, you should find
something else to do.
Rentals throw off income which you have to pay taxes on and if you don’t make
quarterly payments to the IRS, you have a BIG payment due on April 15th. MAKE
QUARTERLY PAYMENTS (or have extra tax taken out of your paycheck by your
employer to cover the additional tax liability) ! Use IRS form 1040ES available on their
website.
Emergencies do come up. You may get a call on a weekend or at night with a real
problem which you need to deal with right away (plumbing leak or dead a/c come to
mind). YOU need to go over there and deal with it or know someone who can (this is
why I only buy realty in the city where I live). It also allows me to drive by
occasionally and check things out… If you have property somewhere else, you have to
pay someone to manage it and there goes your profit !
If you get sued by someone, (not just a tenant, which will almost never happen) and
lose, the plaintiff can put a judgment on your property so never have it in your name,
(use an LLC, corporation or Limited Partnership) setup by a lawyer experienced in this
area.
You DO have to evict people sometimes and it’s not very fun but it’s part of the
business. It is stressful going into a courtroom to confront someone. It rarely happens
though because most people do pay on time and if they don’t, they usually will move
out before the sheriff comes, but not always.
The secret is to deal with problems (i.e. late rent) immediately and work with the
people, do NOT let the problem fester and drag out, it’ll only get worse believe me. I
emailed a tenant today (Saturday) and told her if I didn’t get rent by tomorrow, I WILL
post notice on her door on Monday and I WILL file an eviction 2 days later. That way
they know you’re not just kidding around. But you must follow thru !
Investment property does have its rewards but it involves real WORK, some hassles
and the occasional nightmare but overall it’s a fairly EZ way to build wealth and
generate income, give it a try !
For lots more info, check out this website: http://www.nolo.com/legalencyclopedia/
landlords/index.html

ENERGY AUDIT FACTOIDS

September 19, 2010

This may scare you…

I recently got certified to do energy audits and boy, did I learn a lot about a/c that I didn’t know! I’ll share some of it with you today.

The four most significant facts I wasn’t aware of is that virtually ALL systems are oversized (because houses are so leaky), work at only 60-80% of their design efficiency (due to poor installation or service), have average duct air leakage of 32% and most return air grilles are undersized (also reducing efficiency) ! And people wonder why their bills are so high!

From what I see on a daily basis I can tell you that most filters are dirty and a lot of the outside units need cleaning (the coils or “fins” suck air in continually and get clogged with dust) with some brands worse than others (Rheem and Ruud in particular). Most people never have their unit serviced until it stops cooling! Some units DO keep the space cool but are running constantly during hot weather (the unit should cycle on and off even on very hot days if it‘s working as it should).

Some people use the wrong type filter too (so called “allergy” or “electrostatic” filters). These DO filter well BUT they restrict the airflow thru the equipment, making it run longer and hotter than it should, shortening it‘s life & raising your electric bill. The best ones are the pleated paper type and they last longer too. They filter well but don’t restrict airflow.

If your indoor unit is noisy, I can just about guarantee that your return air grille is too small. The absolute bare bones minimum is 1 square foot of grille for every ton of a/c and 2 square feet is much preferred. Your return air cannot be too big! We often see 3 ton systems with a 12X24 grille which equals 2 square feet  (33% smaller than even the minimum needed!). No wonder they make such a loud sucking sound! So if you have a 2400sf house with a 4 ton a/c, you should have AT LEAST a 4sf return air grille with 8sf being preferable (you can always add a 2nd grille). (This calculation doesn’t take into account the area of the grille louvers themselves which reduce the area of the intake so in actuality you should have a little more than 1sf per ton minimum…)

Something you can do yourself is seal your ducts including the return air space. Go buy some duct mastic (consistency of pudding) from an a/c supply house (may be sold at Lowes or Home Depot), put on some latex gloves and smear it onto all the duct joints. This is best done during the cooler months. Caulk the duct boxes to the ceiling, this is where most air leakage occurs. You just prevented 32% (on average) of the air you pay to cool from blowing into the attic! Companies charge a LOT of money to do this (I was recently quoted $700-$1300 for a 1300sf house) but it’s really very simple.

PS: the class instructor said to NOT get your ducts cleaned unless they’re round metal (which there are very few of out there…).

Courtesy of Precision Inspection      512 282 0455    license #105

Precisioninspection.net    since 1983    member: ABoR, Austin Apt. Assoc.

Used us lately? Give us a call !

FOUNDATION MOVEMENT

August 14, 2010

Anybody connected with the real estate business who has seen this word on an inspection report or an appraisal knows they are in for an interesting day.
Specifically, foundation movement can be anything from a hairline crack in the garage floor to major structural problems requiring piering up the foundation and mud jacking.
I recently attended a seminar in Dallas sponsored on the topic of soil movement and foundation failures. It was an eye-opener!
It seem quite a few things can cause a foundation fail,  from fast growing trees and shrubs near the house to leaking underground water lines and poor drainage.
On a percentage basis, very few foundations ever need repair but every one involved in a real estate transaction has become increasingly aware of being absolutely sure there are no problems.
Regarding drainage, the site should drain water away from the home. A three or five per cent slope is recommended. Anything less will prevent water from running off and anything more can cause soil to erode away from the foundation.
We often find with pear & beam foundations that water runs right under the house. This not only causes the piers to move but can also cause rotting of the structural members of the foundation as well cause termites to become interested in the area.
I have even seen crawlspace areas so damp as to cause the formation of fungi and molds, causing health problems for the occupants. These are exaggerated exponentially if the crawl space under the house isn’t vented properly.
Certain types of trees (most notably willows, Chinese elms, cottonwoods and tallowoods) have extensive surface root systems and should not be planted close to the foundation (“close to the foundation” can be defined as within one to one and half times the mature height of the tree to the slab).
So,  an elm with a mature height of 60 feet should be not closer than 90 feet to the house.  Also,  built-up flower beds or landscaping border (that black plastic stuff that comes in long rolls) that trap water  close to the foundation should be avoided.
Gutters can help poor drainage areas but  downspouts should be extended away from the foundations as far as practically possible.
If not possible, put splash blocks at the end of the downspouts to prevent soil erosion from exposing the grade beams and compromising the structural integrity of the of the foundation.
Real estate agents, appraisers and inspectors should get to know which areas of town have a higher than average percentage of clay type soils which typically expand and contract more then other types of soil and can cause foundation movement.

Montmorillonite clay is found extensively in a wide swath of Texas extending roughly from northwest to southwest and unfortunately running right through the most densely populated parts of the state. This type of clay has been known  to exert pressures up to 16,000 pounds per square foot and lift slabs up to 18 inches out of the ground!  I have personally seen slabs which have heaved up 9”!
Should a foundation need repair (most slab repairs cost between $15-20,000) be sure and get at least three bids from established, bonded companies who will give the homeowner a five year (min.) warranty against future movement. A pier is usually needed every 8′ around the perimeter of the home and these piers cost $350 – $500 each. Sometimes only a portion of the home needs repair. Only a structural engineer can say for sure.
Calling the Better Business Bureau and getting references from each company (and structural engineers) will further indicate who is good and who is not.
If the slab isn’t showing big problems it may only need “hydro-pier” (a watering system put around the slab which drips water when the soil gets too dry). This is much less expensive. The same effect can be had by using a soaker hose around the house.


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